St Marys 1903
David Clement
This report on St Marys is written
as though it was written in 1903. It is based primarily on two
newspaper articles of the time, one published in 1903 and the
other in 1906, but these have been supplemented by information
from other sources, and with hindsight.
St Marys is ensconced on the north-east corner of an immense
basin of good agricultural and grazing land, the Break O’ Day
Plains, in length about five miles and breadth three miles.
On either side rise mountainous rugged ranges, with bluffs and
peaks of basalt and sandstone, heavily timbered, their sombre
hues throwing into bold relief the brightly green and fertile
valley stretching its length at their foot.
Although it has been an exceptionally dry time in the Districts,
the country was observed to be far less dried up to the east
of Fingal than in the Midlands and South. About two inches of
rain has recently fallen, which has served to freshen up the
appearance of the whole country. Every rivulet and mountain
stream is running, and some excellent crops have been harvested;
dairying has not been very severely checked, although the drought
has been sufficiently severe this summer in some parts to greatly
reduce the flow of milk.
Early
Days
St Marys is the township for the surrounding district; but was
not always so: the “Cullenswood” property, two and a half miles
distant, was regarded as such in former years, when all addresses
were given as ‘Cullenswood’ or “near Cullenswood”. Traces of
that era may still be seen, remnants of cottages, an old wooden
church of the Catholic belief dating from 1859, a diminutive
stone structure announcing itself by a tablet over the door
as the “Sunday School 1850”, and Christchurch, the more commodious
stone building erected by adherents of the Church of England.
Before “Cullenswood”, the area was known as the St Patricks
Head District, in recognition of the dominance over the area
of the pyramid mount of St Patricks Head, which gained its appellation
from Tobias Fourneaux, Captain of the “ Adventure “ and second-in
–command during the second voyage of exploration in 1773 by
the great James Cook. The rise and fall of these names as the
identification for the district has been reflected by the changing
name of the Post Office, “St Patricks Head” from l June 1835
to 23 July 1847 when it became “Cullenswood”, until 12 April
1869 when it was altered to “St Marys”, following the survey
of the town site in 1857 and its proclamation as a town in 1864.
The Electoral Roll now shows a total adult population in the
district of 678 persons, with 358 enrolled to vote at
St Marys, and a further 219 at “Woodlawn” near the mining towns
of Cornwall and Mt Nicholas.
The
Arcadia of the Coast
Approaching St Marys, from the direction of Fingal, may be seen
to the front St Patricks Head and Mt Elephant, and the Island
Ranges on the right. To the left you pass Mt Nicholas, South
Sister, that used to be called Mt Mary, and Cheeseberry Hill.
Reference was made in 1864 in Walch’s Almanac to “Mount Elephant”,
due to its perceived resemblance to the shape of the pachyderm,
although officially it still appears on maps as Mt Logie, after
the property name of an early settler in the area, Dr Alexander
Thompson.
The town nestles snugly upon a gentle rise of the road leading
to Georges Bay. When the traveller pulls up at St Marys Hotel,
and has received the cheery welcome of the genial host, “Mick”
Cullenan, a great placidity of soul takes possession, and all
around is peace. This feeling is irresistible; the environment
conduces to its existence, a huge smile of contentment seeming
to overspread this arcadia of our coast. We are lost in wonder
that the travelling photographer has not flooded the country
with views of the place. On enquiring on the merits of the neighbourhood
as a holiday resort, you will hear “fishing and shooting is
good, at numerous places around here, Falmouth, Scamander River,
Four Mile Creek and Seymour. Trout in the Break O’ Day River
are here at the back door, and duck and kangaroo shooting everywhere”.
“Beauty Spots?” “Yes, there’s St Patricks Head, you can drive
part of the way to it, and easily ascend the rest on foot. The
view coastwards, seawards and inland is splendid. Then there
are the Sisters at Germantown, and many other equally pleasant
spots.
The
Township
The township is typical of a thriving country district. It has
several streets, adorned by neat and comfortable weatherboard
dwellings of assorted sizes, and is splendidly drained by the
St Patrick’s Rivulet. Two more streets lamps were put in place
last year, making a total of three. Several important buildings
have been erected quite recently, in 1896 Holy Trinity, the
Church of England, and in 1899 the Roman Catholic Church, previously
at Cullenswood. There is also a Wesleyan Chapel, established
almost 20 years since. The respective clergymen are the Rev
W Cockerall, Father Fleming as the visiting priest, and Pastor
A. S. Wellard. Apparently the Catholic Church service was postponed
for two days recently as Father Fleming missed the train. A
bazaar recently resulted in £40 being raised to help for a new
church at Gray, the remainder for painting Holy Trinity.
The public hall is the Victoria Hall, connected with the Criterion
Hotel, recently built by Mr Jacob Morey, a substantial weatherboard
structure, capable of holding about 400 persons. The buildings
and business places have a modern appearance, on account of
the youthfulness of the town. Early this year the building line
of the township was further improved, when Mr James Smith erected
an attractive two story shoe shop and residence. In addition
to the Railway and Police Stations, the Post Office, Churches
and Saleyards, there are two hotels, a hall, four stores, blacksmiths,
a saddler bootmakers, wheelwrights, butcher, baker, barber and
chemist shops, a branch of the National Bank close to the Post
Office, under the management of Mr Ditcham, the St Marys State
School, a Circulating Library , a Recreation Ground and a Cheese
Factory.
The
Stores
Mr William James Todd started in business here in premises which
he leased in 1890 for five years adjacent to the Criterion Hotel.
He then erected a handsome two storey building, Todd’s Hall,
adjoining the St Marys Hotel which had been purchased by his
father, Mr William Todd, who made very great improvements thereto
in 1895, both inside and out, adding eight new rooms and a balcony
running round two sides of the house. The store is lofty, well
lighted and ventilated, and the stock is thoroughly comprehensive,
embodying jewellery and stationery, besides the usual goods
kept by a first-class store, viz groceries, ironmongery, drapery,
boots and shoes etc. The purchase of the dairy produce of the
district for export is also an important feature of the business.
The business of Mr Frederick Napier in Groom Street was founded
about 1862 by Mr William Lade, and is the oldest general store.
It commands the trade not only of the immediate neighbourhood,
but of the coal mines and the entire surrounding country. An
important feature of the business is the purchase of the dairy
produce for export to the principal markets. The stock is varied
and extensive, replete with every class of goods to meet the
requirements of the district. The business was purchased by
the father of the present proprietor in 1885, in partnership
with Sir P. O. Fysh, and came into his possession when the former
died in 1892.
The store in the Main Road, recently taken over by Mr Hilton
Dawborn, is on equal terms with those of Messrs Napier and Todd,
having been a major centre of commerce in the town since its
construction by Joseph Ebenezer Clarke in 1880 and the subsequent
ownership of Mr John Tomlin Cramp. The other store in town,
Messrs Dawson Bros, is a soft goods establishment, and customers
can always depend on securing articles of the latest fashion
at little more than cost price.
A few weeks ago, Mr T. G. Collins opened a hairdressing saloon
in the main street, and is prepared to give patrons the benefit
of his experience as a tradesman.
Law
and Order
Disturbers of the peace and breakers of the law are rarities,
and Trooper Lamb is quite equal to keeping order in the town;
the apartments at the rear of his quarters in Groom Street are
more often “to let” than tenanted. However, it is not always
tranquil in the town, as evidenced by this letter to the Editor
of the Examiner in April. “The Roman Catholic Chapel is a very
nice building situated at the very end of the township; very
recently bullets were fired through its ornamental windows.
There is a reward offered for the conviction of those who did
this dastardly deed. W. G. Mitchell, St Marys”. Even the reputation
and standing of members of the community is no guarantee that
they may not fall foul of authority, as witnessed by the presence
of Messrs H. Woodberry, W. Lohrey, H. Lohrey junior and A. V.
Doyle at the St Marys Police Court in June for failure to dip
their sheep according to the Act, for which they were each fined
£1. On the same occasion, Mr W. Smith appeared on a school case,
suffering to the extent of 2/6d for the failure of his child
to attend school.
St
Marys Hotel
The St Marys Hotel built in 1861 and opened in 1867 by Mr Thomas
Hardy, and the Criterion Hotel built by Mr Jacob Morey in 1890,
are the public conveniences. The former is currently licensed
by Mr M. Cullenan and the latter by Mr A P Lucas. A short time
ago a first class billiard table was added to the St Marys Hotel,
and exponents of the art are confident that it is one of the
best tables in Tasmania. After Mr William Todd purchased the
St Marys Hotel in 1894 he requested his son-in-law Mr Cullenan
to come from Bendigo to manage it; the hostelry is the popular
family and commercial hotel of the township, and is situated
close to the Post Office and Railway Station. The house can
accommodate twenty guests, and during the busy season additional
room can be utilised. The St Patricks River, which is teeming
with trout and blackfish, runs at the foot of the garden and
affords excellent sport for visitors.
St Marys Pass
Tourists have so great a diversity of drives and walks to places
of note to choose from, affording so many facilities for the
admiration of nature’s wonders, that the interest never flags.
Of these may be mentioned St Marys Pass : driving to St Helens,
the road leads through this Pass. The road was made between
1842-1845 by convict labour, kept in barracks at St Marys Pass
Probation Station, situated on the ‘grassy bottom’ of St Patricks
Head. Leading to the Pass, one travels through a short, natural
avenue of towering gum trees, known locally as “The Avenue”
. The road is dotted on either side here and there with the
neat cottages of selectors. The clearings around announce the
struggle going on between man and forest. In the time of the
construction of the Pass this approach was referred to as St
Marys Vale, or valley.
On the opposite side of the road to the piece of ground where
was sited the Probation Station, about a mile from the Post
Office at St Marys, is an old burying ground, said to have been
used for the burial of convicts who died on the construction
of the Pass. It is covered with thick scrub, and there is not
a fence or sign to mark the locality, save a few rough stones
that are round one or two graves. A stranger would meet with
great difficulties in finding the place, and even then he would
not know its former purpose unless acquainted with the fact.
It is to be regretted that the authorities are not sensitive
enough to prevent this sad place from drifting into the same
level as if beasts were buried there.
On reaching the top of the vale, almost without notice the Pass
is entered, and the magnificent gorge stretches to the ocean
in picturesque grandeur. Down through the trees, hundreds of
feet below, glistens a tiny stream; tumbling over the side of
a hill a waterfall leaps and rushes, and away towards the ocean
are the rollers breaking on black rocks in white foam. The road
winds for four miles along the mountain side in an easy descent,
turning and looping no less than 50 times, sometimes under overhanging
cliffs, and then skirting along the edges of precipices, deep
gorges and fern glades. It is a wonderfully graded road, and
affords a delightful ride for a bicyclist on a “free wheel”,
though the Minister for Land recently inspected some parts of
it which required attention on account of landslips. The beautiful
native shrubs and flowers add enchantment to the scene, and
the thick clustering clematis in profusion, diffuse sweet fragrance
through the cool zephyrs wafted from the sea. The immense forests
of the gorge include ironbark, gums, stringybark, native cherry
and sassafras. A few brave settlers have carved homes for themselves
in the dense forest, deep down in the bottom of the gorge, doing
a little dairying and growing very fine vegetables. When the
level is reached, the road branches off to the spacious Falmouth
flats on the one hand and continues onto Georges Bay on the
other.
Island
Range Pass
There are other passes beside that of St Marys – Island Range
Pass, Four Mile Creek Pass and that on the road to Germantown,
all of which afford beautiful seascape views. While St Marys
Pass, was completed in 1845, the Pass to the south, Island Range
Pass, the road to Picannini, was blazed only as late as 1878
by Mr William Meinas, then a new settler in the district from
Prussia. This contribution to his new homeland afforded a much
quicker access to Swansea and the East Coast, and has made St
Marys the junction of all coastal and inland travel on this
side of the island. However, in May of this year, there was
a terrific gale in which many giants of the forest were shattered
and rooted up, blocking nearly all the roads.
St
Patricks Head
Tourists must not fail to climb St Patricks Head, the pyramid
shaped mount which dominates the area as you approach from the
east, familiarly known as and irreverently called “Paddys Head”.
The climb is not a difficult one to those not overburdened with
adipose matter; even so, any exertion expended in reaching the
summit is amply repaid – if there is no haze – by the gorgeous
cyclorama. To reach the top a good track has been cut, the cost
of which was defrayed by subscription raised locally. Still
a few more pounds spent on it would make it perfect. The height
of the mount from the base to summit is estimated at 1200 feet,
but the actual height above sea level approaches double that
at 2227 feet.
The Rivulet
The St Patricks Rivulet, a contributory to the Break O’ Day
River and hence the South Esk, winds its sinuous course around
the outskirts of the town. Although not carrying any great volume
of water as it flows, it has many ponds wherein good fishing
may be had; excellent hauls of blackfish, trout and eels may
be taken. The bridge over the rivulet near the Roman Catholic
Church was closed against traffic for over a month earlier this
year, on account of it being unsafe, and vehicles had to be
driven over the ford nearby. Representations were made to the
effect that the Government would confer a great boon on the
residents if a new bridge was to be constructed without delay,
which apparently were well received, as a new bridge was started
in mid July and completed by the end of the first week in August
Agriculture and Grazing
The flat country around is very good, most of it being dark
loam, though such products as potatoes do not thrive well owing
to the severe frosts that are frequently experienced, due to
the high elevation of the locality, which is 832 feet above
sea level. On the flat land there is also a danger of rot. Also,
at times the local farmers have found it a very difficult matter
to gain a market for their potatoes and, as they do not care
to dispose of them at the prevailing low market prices, make
use of them for their cattle and pigs. It is grazing and dairying
which are largely carried on in the district, the fat stock
and sheep finding their way into the northern markets; the milk
producers direct their attention to cheese and butter for returns.
Some of the dairy herds number as many as 60 or 70 head, although
the industry is almost dormant in the winter, as there is generally
a scarcity of feed during that period. Large quantities of cheese
and butter are made in all parts of the district, the year’s
supply frequently purchased in advance by the wholesale buyers.
The district contains such notable estates and properties as
“Killymoon”, Millbrook”, “Kooringa”, “Cullenswood”, “Londavra”
and “Harefield”. The Harefield estate was cut up into blocks
and sold after the death of Mr Francis Groom in 1890, the purchasers
now utilizing the land for grazing and cultivation. It is regrettable
that, with land so suitable, the growing of cereal crops is
so much neglected, and also that those who do cultivate hardly
ever change the crop or let the land lie fallow, but work it
year after year without rest or change until it is exhausted.
The Cornwall Guide mentions that there are small lots of first
class, and large areas of second and third class lands still
available for selection in the neighbourhood. It may be added
that on some of the land denominated ‘second class’ land, dairying
is successfully carried on, as certain grasses, notably cocksfoot,
perennial ryegrass, clover and fog grown on such lands do wonderfully
well.
The largest holding in the district is “Londavra”, of which
Mr Robert Cameron is the owner. It is divided into 10 or 11
farms, each having its respective name. All are engaged in dairying,
though most cultivate small areas – chiefly for their own use.
The biggest dairyman in the district is Mr Henry Woodberry,
whose block surrounds the original Londavra homestead. He has
been a resident of the locality for some 25 years, but intends
to leave when his present lease expires, 12 months hence. During
the past season he milked as many as 70 cows, and treated the
milk with a hand separator capable of putting through 100 gallons
per hour, manufacturing butter on his premises.
Mr L Berwick, another tenant of the Londavra estate, has recently
taken over the tenancy of “Ascot Vale” on the Londavra estate
from Mr Robert Cadman, one of the oldest residents of St Marys
and known far and wide for the perfection to which he has brought
cheese-making in the district. His dairy farm comprised 240
acres of excellent dairying land, used to the best advantage.
On average about 60 cows are milked daily, with the milk practically
all used in the manufacture or cheese, the average output being
between 5 - 6 tons each season. Mr Cadman worked the farm and
lived on it for 38 years, and took many exhibition prizes for
his cheeses, both in the colony and other countries, winning
the medal and certificate at the Calcutta International Exhibition
of 1884.
Other farmers in the season either send their milk to the factory,
or make butter themselves. Mr George William Oliver carries
on dairy farming at “Balaclava”, which he purchased from the
late Mr John Story after leasing it for five years, and has
been producing cheese, butter and bacon for twenty five years.
Mr Lohrey on “Daisyburn” at Dublin Town has been making cheese
for the past 26 years he has been on his property.
The “Picnic” Cheese
The cheese from this quarter holds deservedly a high reputation
among consumers, and the butter also commands a ready sale.
In 1894 the Tasmanian Dairy Company erected a creamery apposite
the Railway Station, a building 21 x 24 feet to supply the company’s
Launceston butter factory, but several years back in 1897 it
was turned into a cheese factory, 32 x 28 feet with store 24
x 20, being completely insulated in the floors, walls and ceilings,
so far their manufacture has been of excellent quality. The
factory was taken over in 1901 by the Tasmanian Produce and
Cool Stores Company. A separator is attached to the factory
for the convenience of those farmers who care to avail themselves
of its use. It closes during Winter, and re-opens in the Spring.
The factory is now under the management of Mr Fallon. The product
bears the brand name knows as the “Picnic”.
The cheeses are turned out in weights of 3, 10 and 25 pounds
each, all finding ready sale within Tasmania. Only full cream
milk is used in the making, and when the factory is in full
work 700 gallons of milk per day is dealt with; the two vats
hold 500 gallons each. The milk is obtained from farmers residing
within a radius of 4 miles, and from it only cheese is turned
out, butter being less profitable.
German Town
Above the fog and the rich marshlands of Londavra are mountains
to the north west of St Marys; over these mountains is the district
of German Town, so called because descendants of the settlers
who arrived in the district in 1855 from the German States were
the early settlers there. German Town is carved out of the dense
heavily-timbered forest by a most industrious, thrifty lot of
settlers who are reaping their reward. Adjacent is the settlement
of Dublin Town, the location of ‘Derry Lodge’, home of Mr R.
Speers. The flat country of both settlements in its natural
state was very heavily timbered, but the soil, being a rich
chocolate, was sufficient to entice the settlers to set to work
and clear it. There are only a few holdings, ranging from 50
to 200 acres. The principal residents are Messrs T. H. &
P. Lohrey, who have resided in the locality for nearly 30 years.
There are two public buildings, the Church of England and the
State School.
However, it would be misleading to believe that German Town
is the focus of settlement in the District for migrants from
the German States. While the Lohreys arrived in Tasmania on
the America in 1855 with other settlers from Bavaria, Nassau,
Wirtemburg and other independent German States, other migrants
from Prussia in 1870 took up land and settled predominantly
n a crescent from an area below St Patricks Head, now strangely
referred to as Irishtown, through Green Valley and Gray and
along Thompsons Marsh Road.
The settlers in the district from the German States arrived
on various migrant ships between 1855 and 1872. Of greatest
significance to the Break O’Day Plains was the “America” in
1855, and the “Victoria” and the “Figaro” in 1870. The migrants
on the “America” were leaving behind economic depression in
Europe at the time, encouraged by the bounty migrant scheme
introduced to overcome the shortage of labour brought about
by the cessation of convict transportation in 1853. The migrants
on the Victoria and the Figaro were mainly families who had
lost menfolk in the Austro-Prussian War of 1866, and who feared
to lose more in the obviously upcoming Franco-Prussian War of
1870. These families and their descendants are now an integral
part of the local community and economy. Before they arrived,
the landowners used their land as sheep and cattle runs; the
new settlers brought a different history and culture to the
area, and new skills, and have planted and sowed, producing
grapes, hops, potatoes and numerous vegetables, smoked and pickled,
made cheese, yoghurt, butter and sausages, brewed beer and made
wine.
The Railway
St Marys is the terminus of the Fingal Railway line, opened
in 1886. This station supplies, on order, all the coal trucks
needed by the mines to take away their coal. In addition to
the ordinary trains running daily, a special rake of coal truck
is run every other day. From each pit a tramway runs to the
railway line which enables a train to be loaded without much
inconvenience. The mines have telephone communication with the
railway station, which greatly facilitates trucking arrangements.
There is a running shed affording berthing room for four engines;
also a goods shed. Residences, “Railway Cottages”, are provided
by the Department for the station master, Mr F G Tabart, guard
and engineers. The traffic on the line is mostly in the carriage
of coal, and it is the return from that source upon which the
upkeep of the line chiefly depends. It is no coincidence that
both Cornwall and Mt Nicholas Mines and the St Marys Railway
Station commenced working in the same year,1886.
There is, however, a good deal of dissatisfaction existing locally,
at the Railway Department not being able to supply enough trucks
at all times to meet the demands of the mines. When trucks are
not available, no work is done, which means a great loss to
the men. The same state of affairs is experienced each year
at this season, owing to the large trade on the North West Coast
with harvest products calling for trucks. Neither have the passenger
train arrangements, either to Hobart or Launceston, been at
all satisfactory. For over two years endeavours have been made
to induce the Government to run two trains a day each way to
Conara Junction. Passengers have been subjected to long delays
at the Junction on certain days, which could have been avoided
if trains left St Marys daily at 9.00 am and 12.30 pm. Satisfaction
has been expressed on all sides at the alteration to the service
to meet these complaints, just announced.
Coal
Coal is plentiful in the district. The two major mines are the
Cornwall and the Mount Nicholas Mines, which have been worked
since 1886, but the Jubilee Mine which was discovered in 1896
started last year, and St Marys Railway Station is lively at
present with five trucks of coal leaving the station each morning,
the combined output of the Jubilee and Cardiff mines. The Cardiff
Coal Mining Company No Liability only earlier this year increased
its Nominal Capital from £2500 to £3500, while application has
been made this November to form The Dalmayne Coal Association
to operate in the Parish of Boultbie, with 1500 shares being
taken up, mainly by Hobart investors. Mr E Gaunt is Legal Manager
of both companies.
The Cornwall and Mount Nicholas mines each employ about 75 men
under the charge of Mr D Brough at Cornwall and Mr S Birrell
at Mt Nicholas. Cornwall is three miles from St Marys, and has
a co-existence with its neighbour, Mount Nicholas – a distance
of about two miles separate them. Leading from one to the other
is a very rough foot track which runs along the side of the
range over logs, bogs, rocks and creeks. Both mines started
to get out coal at the same time in 1886, and made great efforts
to obtain the first truck of coal. Both succeeded in getting
a truck out on the same day, so honours were equal. There are
miniature townships at both collieries. Most of the miners and
their families reside at the colliery in neat little cottages.
Some have been settled there for years and, as most are married
men with families, the respective localities always wear a busy
appearance, especially on a day when there is no work in the
pits. At both places there are State Schools for the convenience
of the miner’s children, as it would be too far for them to
journey to St Marys. Not all employees are miners, the companies
employ blacksmiths, electricians, and ostlers also for tending
the ponies. At Cornwall there are two stores doing business.
A small, but excellent, brass band, the Cornwall Brass Band,
has been formed by the miners. In addition to discoursing music
to their own community they at times give their friends at St
Marys a musical treat.
Nonetheless, harmony does not prevail at all times. Only last
year there was high drama at Mount Nicholas mine. It was found
that the scales on which the contract miner’s output was weighed,
was out by 737 tons compared with Government weights. The men
offered to work on daily wages, but management declined the
offer, and the mine was closed while new scales were installed.
The screens were also found to be too big as they allowed too
much small coal to fall though. Late in the year, there was
a fire at the Colliery. Some two years ago, miners at both Cornwall
and Mount Nicholas were on strike over pay, and men in company
houses were given 14 days to quit their houses. Again last year
miners were on strike for 4 months over the pay of men working
the poorer sections.
A visitor to St Marys had the opportunity to visit the working
of the Cornwall Mine; the following is the report of his experiences:
“After an inspection of the engine house and the electric plant
we boarded the motor engine that is employed drawing the skips
to and from the mine. We were carried along at express speed
for about three-quarters of a mile underground along the main
tunnel. So far the mine was brilliantly illuminated by electricity.
On leaving the motor and getting into one of the empty skips
drawn by ponies we were compelled to sit very low on account
of the inky darkness and the lowness of the rock overhead which,
by the way, was made of solid coal. After travelling for about
a quarter of a mile we left the skips and continued our way
in a stooping position to the face where I noticed the men at
work. The sight of a coal miner at work is very peculiar. He
is down on his knees with a short pick, belting away at a solid
wall of coal, the only light being a small pipe-like bowl fixed
to his cap, which sheds a weird light.
Arriving at the face I had to follow my guide, dog fashion,
a considerable distance, the roof being only three feet high.
While sitting down having a rest I head a loud crack over my
head. Naturally enough I made a move in record time, thinking
the whole mine was coming down. My companions smilingly told
me that the noise was caused by the mine settling down. We then
passed dozens of miners at work in pairs – one hewing and the
other filling the skips. These skips are then drawn out to the
main tunnel by the ponies, where the skips are transferred to
the motor engine and hauled to the top of the hill where they
are sent down by a winding process to the screens. After screening,
the coal is placed in trucks, ready for the market. A series
of loaded trucks runs downhill by its own weight, pulling a
similar number of empty ones uphill by means of a wire tope
passing around a large winding wheel controlled by a powerful
brake. After three hours in the mine we returned to daylight,
wiser but blacker men.”
The Roads
Great excitement was caused on 29th May last when a motor car
passed through, enroute to the East Coast, the first vehicle
of it kind to pass through the town. The roads of the district
are the responsibility of the St Marys Road District Trust,
currently composed of Mr Michael Cullenan as Chairman and Treasurer,
and Messrs Phillip Lohrey, Thomas William King and Thomas Berwick
as Trustees. The Road Rate for the year has been set at one
shilling in the pound (5%) on all private property, and sixpence
in the pound on Crown Lands, as shown by the Assessment Roll
for the Municipality of Fingal for the year 1903.
There has been some discussion locally on the appointment of
Mr Bryant as Road Overseer, on the basis that he was not a local
man. However, a report states that “the Road Overseer for the
past fortnight has been engaged in erecting a new bridge in
the Parish of Gray. The work is very neatly and safely executed:
concluded that “Mr Bryant is showing his ability in a very pleasing
and satisfactory manner:. Tenders have been called for grubbing
briars and gorse on the road between Killymoon and St Marys,
but only one tender was received and was deemed too high in
price, so that the Trust thought it advisable to have the work
executed by its own staff.
Whilst almost all receipts of the Trust are from the Road Rate
levied on property owners, it did last year charge the Education
Department £6 for clearing stones from the playground at Gray
School, and earned sixteen shillings from selling materials
from drains, of Total Receipts of £490. The major expenses were
Day Labour £242, Stone Crusher £90, Cartage £62, Horse-feed
£32, Blacksmith’s work £15 and Fencing Scrubbing and Clearing
£6. The cost of the horse feed generated some correspondence
To the Editor:- “Sir, a report of the St Marys Road Trusts last
meeting stated that about four tons of chaff were used in keeping
the road horse from January 1 to May 30, a period of five months,
for a cost of £11. As the Trust have now disposed of their horse,
why do they not purchase one in its place? We are now paying
a carter four shillings a day for his horse, amounting to £30
for four months. The carter does not supply his own dray, but
is utilising that of the Trust. If we allow eight shillings
a month for shoes, or £2 over the four months, there would be
a balance of £17 in favour of having a horse of their own, even
allowing for blacksmithing work. Yours etc.”
Minerals
With the exception of coal, no other mineral appears to have
been seriously prospected for in the district. Why such is the
case would be hard to say, for the ranges around have all the
indications of auriferous and stanniferous possibilities, and
they do not present the same difficulties and hardships which
the prospector on the West Coast has to encounter. About 16
years ago a little prospecting work was done close to the town
on the Georges Bay Road. It consisted in putting a shaft down
and driving an adit (entrance) in, giving prospects of gold
and galena, but whether these were payable or not there are
no records to show. Probably at that time they were not considered
payable, as the efforts of that prospector were contemptuously
dubbed “House’s Folly”.
Health
Of course, in any district, no matter how healthy, there are
always to be found infantile problems. While, the general salubrity
of St Marys would seem to prevent the possibility of a “medico”
from earning his salt, should he take his chance here, it is
necessary – as disease and accidents are always lurking – for
the residents to guard against danger, and have the services
of a medical man close at hand. Indeed, whooping cough and influenza
have been prevalent in some houses and the winter weather was
accompanied by bad colds and sickness. At present, Dr Hoskings
of Fingal is the nearest medical man. He was only recently here
in the town, engaged in vaccination against smallpox. The residents
have been astir, and signatures to a guarantee of a fixed income
as an inducement for a doctor to settle in St Marys were obtained
by a vigorous canvas organised by Messrs McHugo and Schiers,
with the result that Doctor Walker has been obtained for the
town. It is to be hoped that he will be happy with the practice,
and that his arrival may prevent some of the less happy consequences
of self-treatment. An inquest recently found that Miss Mary
Davis at Fingal died of congestion of the brain due to an overdose
of creosote, as a consequence of placing a wadding dipped in
the substance on an aching tooth.
Gone Before
Some eight years ago there was a public meeting convened to
discuss establishing a Public Cemetery for St Marys. A subsequent
meeting announced that suitable ground had been found and steps
taken to secure it, and the ground in Gray Road was commenced
three years back, consecrated firstly by the Methodists in 1899
and the Catholics and Presbyterians two years ago. As yet, the
Anglicans have not done so. There are two Undertakers in the
township, Mr Mitchell and Mr McHugo, apparently keenly in competition,
with rates of ten shillings for a grave and five pounds for
a burial. Last year Mr W G Mitchell complained in the “Examiner”
that “it is virtually impossible to find vacant ground in Cullenswood
cemetery. Sometimes three attempts are necessary to find ground
that does not contain other bodies”. Mr Mitchell urged that
now there was a public cemetery in the area, burials at Cullenswood
should be ceased, except for reserved sites. The Accounts for
the St Marys Public Cemetery for the year ending 31 December
last year (1902) showed receipts of £2-15-6 from fees for private
graves and £1-0-0 for public graves, insufficient to meet the
£8-0-0 interest on loan, which needed to be met from the balance
of the previous year’s operations.
The School
The State School house in Main Street is an old fashioned building,
divided into two fairly large rooms, and the teacher’s residence
is a detached four roomed cottage standing in its own grounds.
The school building is of wooden construction, old and dilapidated.
It was erected about 1876. The walls are now crumbling to pieces,
age and dry rot is telling its tale. Besides, the accommodation
for the children is far too scanty, and a much larger building
is urgently required. When Mr Smith took charge of the school
in 1893, the number of pupils on the roll was only about 60.
The number of scholars on the roll now is 95, and the average
daily attendance about 80. The school for the past two years
has been in the charge of Mr Edward McGregor, who, in his work,
is assisted by two lady teachers. It is understood that at the
beginning of next year, the erection of a new school house will
be commenced. It will be none too soon. However the district
as a whole is well supplied with schools; there are no less
than five of these within a five mile radius of the Post office,
situated at Mt Nicholas, Cornwall, St Patricks Head, Germantown
and Gray.
The Fingal Municipal Council at its meetings sometimes goes
into session as a ‘Board of Advice’ regarding school affairs.
At its meeting in May, the Board received an application by
the teacher of the Cornwall State School to have a woodshed
erected and a lock placed on the door to prevent coal being
stolen. This at a place built on coal! In true Solomon fashion
the members decided they were not empowered to construct new
buildings and would communicate the request to the Department.
At the same meeting, application was received from the St Marys
State School for an additional allowance to be made for cleaning
of the premises, but it was decided to let the matter stand
over for a month, in the meantime other arrangements might be
made.
Library
The Circulating Library, sustained by a few ladies who act as
honorary librarians, is stocked with a well-selected lot of
books which, if not exactly the latest publications, are entertaining
and instructive, the Library being well supported and much appreciated.
Sport
There is no lack of sport in St Marys, cricket and football
are prominent pastimes, and in the seasons create a great deal
of interest. The Recreation Ground is quite close to the town.
On it the teams practice and fight their battles with leather
sphere and willow. Sports Meetings are also held on the ground,
as it is admirably adapted for all kinds of athletic contests.
The Fingal Council this year set aside £25 in response to an
application for assistance to improve the Recreation Ground.
Mr James Phillips, the blacksmith, who takes great interest
in matters of this kind, and in the improvement of the ground,
was successful in collecting £3-5-0 for tree planting. Having
obtained sixty trees, he and Mr L Schier, who is the saddler
of the town, lately planted them in the Reserve and supplied
tree guards for their protection.
The Racing Club is most important in the town. The principal
fixture is on a New Year’s Day, when about £150 is given away
in stakes. The racecourse is two miles away on the Woodlawn
Estate, owned by Mr R Wardlaw. The racing committee has now
obtained the use of a tract of land adjoining the Recreation
Reserve, on which they propose holding meetings in the future.
The area of land is barely sufficient of itself to cut out a
full course. However, if they succeed in persuading the Trustees
of the Recreation Reserve to grant the use of a portion of their
ground when race meetings are being held, then an excellent
racing track would be provided. This need not be used as a training
track, as there is ample space for that purpose on the committee’s
own ground. Racing in the district should be encouraged as it
teems with good sportsmen and cross country riders; while over
the sticks’ (hurdles) are always part of the Racing Club’s programme,
the St Marys Handicap over 1¼ miles for a prize of 10 sovereigns
is the premier event. Mr A V Doyle and Mrs Doyle both race gallopers.
They have their stables adjacent to their residence on the Rivulet,
sometimes eleven horses. According to my informant they do not
always see eye to eye about horses – their sons, Ernie, Arthur
and Percy ride for them, two for the mother and one for the
father.
Entertainment
There is no shortage of entertainment in the town, with each
denomination providing Picnic Days for the children of their
following, and Balls seeming to take place with an exhausting
regularity. In May a Ball was held at the Victoria Hall, the
proceeds of which amounted to £6 to go towards a new horse and
trap for Father Fleming, whose existing vehicle was in a sad
state of repair. Previously, in April, the Deaf, Dumb and Blind
Entertainers gave a very successful entertainment in the Hall
to a large and appreciative audience.
There had been some dejection early in the year when several
residents journeyed to Launceston intending to hear Madame Melba
sing. All returned looking downcast and feeling very disappointed
at not having hear the gifted songstress. During August a Plain
and Fancy Dress Ball was given by the St Marys Brass Band. The
attendance was only moderate and no fancy dress was worn. A
hand around supper was given at 12o’clock, and the dancing broke
up at 2.00 am. Mrs Goldsmith and Miss Madden acted as pianists,
and Mr Alf Bullock made an excellent MC.
The Brass Band is a great acquisition to the township, and its
performances materially enliven local amusements. A large number
of people assembled in the Victoria Hall on a Saturday night
in October to witness handicap chopping and sawing matches.
Meetings are held by the Band of Hope at the Wesley Hall, at
which songs, recitations, dialogues and duets are rendered.
Socials are held for the children of the State School, given
by Miss Blackett, at which friends and relatives of the little
ones assemble for an amusing and pleasant evening.
Weather
As may be expected of a location set among mountains and plains
and in close proximity to the coast, the weather of the township
may be somewhat of a “curate’s egg”. The regular reports on
the district provided by the ‘Country Correspondent’ to the
“Examiner” indicate that while it may in general be Arcadia,
there are times in winter when it is otherwise: “throughout
the past week the weather has been miserable, raining every
day, accompanied by very heavy fogs”. ‘The weather has been
cold and miserable, rain falling every day. The Farmers are
now nursing their cattle through being exposed to such violent
storms, and several losses have been reported through the past
fortnight.” However, all clouds have a silver lining: “The frosts
early morning are very severe at present, but, delightful to
say, we have very nice sunshine during the days.” “The cattle
on the winter runs are doing well up to the present”, and Arcadia
returns: “The District is experiencing lovely Spring weather,
grass is abundant, and there is every prospect of a bountiful
harvest.”
The Future
The township of St Marys was surveyed in 1857 and lots first
sold in that year. Sprent’s map of 1858 showed St Marys as “a
township not yet settled.” It was proclaimed as a town in 1864,
and Walch’s Almanac of that year described it as follows: “The
private road to Harefield is bounded by the township of St Marys,
where is seen the Police Office to the right. There are about
half a dozen tenements on the township, including the house
of Mr Thomas Hardy at the side of the rivulet. Crossing this
by a log bridge, the road continues through forest for some
miles”. In 1871 there were still only 5 houses ‘on the town’,
but following the opening of the coal mines and the railway
in 1886 and the property developments by Mr Joseph Ebeneezer
Clarke at the same time on “the block’ including cottages, a
store and a bank building, the town has grown mightily over
the past 20 years, with a corresponding increasing the townie
population of the area.
The original town boundaries have not been extended since its
survey in 1859 and its proclamation in 1863, meaning that those
properties on the eastern side of the Rivulet, such as Mr Doyle’s
butchery, Dawson Bros, the Criterion Hotel and Victoria Hall
are not ‘on the town’. It is anticipated that the boundaries
are to be enlarged next year, recognising the reality of the
growth of the town over recent years and the vigour of its present
community, and the fact that St Marys has become the capital
of the Break O’ Day Plains and the surrounding Highlands.
David Clement